From: cycleguy4:
call the dealership in ann arbor, ask to speak to the mechanic, and ask him where the tranny dipstick is. Sometimes you have to take out a bolt on the side and fill it from the bolt hole. Otherwise buy a manual. Tim

From: Melinda:

call the dealership in ann arbor, ask to speak to the mechanic, and ask him where the tranny dipstick is. Sometimes you have to take out a bolt on the side and fill it from the bolt hole. Otherwise buy a manual. Tim

The closest dealership is in Novi.

From: Bill:

Try this (it’s for a 2000-I don’t know how different it is) http://www.autoqna.com/Maintenance-Repairs/2351-1-Auto-Maintenance-Repairs-4.htm

I hope that helps.

From: Melinda:
Thanks so much. This was very useful.

From: cycleguy4:
I have heard that if you take it to auto zone they have instruments to analyze the system, and if you buy any needed parts there, they will lend you the tools to change parts. Also, it might be a problem with a sensor, about the only way to see what it is, would be to put it on a computer to see whats wrong.

If its an older mustang, It could be one of the fast idle cams on the carb, maybe the choke is sticking a little keeping it at a fast idle. I guess we need more info, year, carb or electronic fuel injection, etc.

Also could be the throttle cable from the gas pedal to the carb sticking slightly inside its casing.

From: momf729:
Hi,

This is her Son, who’s been working on the car. The original trouble codes were for idle air bypass problem, which caused me to replace the idle air control valve. However, now it idles too high, and even adjusting the throttle set screw isn’t affecting it any, neither is unplugging the IAC (its supposed to make the car hesitate). Two trouble codes are present now, one for unable to test idle high rpm range, and unable to test idle low rpm range. (unable to adjust them). I believe it’s still related to the new IAC valve, but not 100% sure.

It is an EFI, and we know the egr valve is bad, but that’s only affected during acceleration, so we know it’s not the problem. My other option is to check for vacuum leaks, and try replacing them one by one to see if the problem is fixed.

Thank you

From: cycleguy4:
a bad egr valve will leak vaccuum , it is a valve that allows intake manifold vapors to be sucked out and stored in the charcoal cannister.

It is an EFI, and we know the egr valve is bad, but that’s only
affected during acceleration

From: kim furnas:
right, but until you give it throttle it’s closed, which is what’s wrong with it now, it just never opens up. When the car’s idle the egr valve shouldn’t even be opened up unless it’s broken. It’s not leaking, it’s stuck closed so when you give it gas it doesn’t open up.

From: savage776949203:

right, but until you give it throttle it’s closed, which is what’s wrong with it now, it just never opens up. When the car’s idle the egr valve shouldn’t even be opened up unless it’s broken. It’s not
leaking, it’s stuck closed so when you give it gas it doesn’t open up.

You have an obvious vaccuum leak. To locate the leak first check to see all the hoses/lines are connected and that there are no open vaccuum ports. (Remember Canisters and Power Brake as well) Use penatrating oil to spray the intake manifold with the engine running. If the RPM changes then you’ve found your leak. Spray the base of the Carb as well, throttle plates wearout and base gaskets get crusty with heat. Be sure that the AC Solenoid isn’t holding the throttle open also.

From: chris&marc:
Did you check the mass airflow sensor located in the air housing yet

From: Dan Tice:
Look under where you post your message, click on links, there you will find on-line repair manuals for your car. They should be able to help you find what you are looking for.

From: cycleguy4:
have somebody look under the hood while you keep hitting the horn button, the horn relay will click every time you hit the horn button.

From: gloria king:
thank you for your reply but my hanes manual doesnt show anything for the horn on the S10 and they dont make a chiltons for my truck either but thats why i am asking people if they know where it is because i cant find out any answers with all of the manuals that i have purchased so thank you for your help and have a merry christmas sincerely gloria king

From: gloria king:
well thats the problem the horn got stuck on and my brother-n-law did something to it to stop it and says he dont know what he did but anyway now the horn doesnt work will the relay still click when i hit the horn button? thanks for your help sincerely gloria king

From: cycleguy4:
if its stuck on, it will only click if you remove the battery cable and put it back on. that might also make it unstick. you can take the battery cable and tap it back and forth on the battery terminal and it will make the horn relay click each time if it is still stuck

From: cycleguy4:
also, can you see the horn? There is a wire that goes from the horn right to the horn relay. be careful though because that will make a spark which could blow up the battery if the car has been running and the battery producing gas.

From: Dan Tice:
The relay should still make a clicking noise if the horn button is pushed, if there is power to it. If not you may have a blown fuse. It is also possible you have a broken contact inside the horn button.

list of things that have been replaced already:

• spark plugs
• crank position sensor

list of things tested and believed to be working properly:

• Timing, timing chain & timing chain tensioner
• spark modules
• spark control module
• fuel pump
• starter

So we have rotation, fuel & spark…no oil in the water and no water in the oil, only has occassional backfire, but engine sounds as tho its lacking compression (seems to spin too freely) ANY ideas???
Any help on this appreciated!!

THANKS!!

From: Michelle Donnelly:
Sounds like bad valves, that is what happened to my van.

From: Elizabeth Carroll:
I have worked on a car that did the same thing. It would over heat. The last time the gentleman drove it has pushed it too hard. The pistens and rings fused together. The best way to find out is to perform a compression test.

From: Chris&Marc:
did anyone check the oxygen sensor i had a mechanic who couldn’t figure out what was wrong until i said check that sounds like the same symptoms my car had-marc

From: cycleguy4:
maybe the catalytic converter is plugged up solid, ive seen it happen.

From: drtice555:
Have your mechanic check the compression and recheck the timing, the valves could be opening at the wrong time. the timing being off could cause the overheating as well. Check out some of the links that have been posted, there is help there as well.

From: Cherie L. Hobbs:
Thank you for your response, we have done all that you have mentioned except for checking the compression.
The timing is dead on. So wouldn’t it be the valves or the head gasket? We just don’t know anymore…we keep going in circles! There have been 3 mechanics who have looked at it and tested everything. It hasn’t been put on a scope yet, but to do so would cost a bit to have towed. And THEN we still aren’t sure if we can get it fixed or not…thus the reason for the posting. We are hoping that someone might come up with something we haven’t thought of and checked already. So far ..compression is the only thing. But we DO appreciate your answers! I am new to this group so I will try to search up the links to which you speak of! Thank you for your answer…does a compression test cost alot to have done?

From: Elizabeth Carroll:
You might be able to borrow a tester from Auto Zone. The best thing to do is disconnect the coil pack then pull all the spark plugs out. Put the compression tester in the number 1 cylinder. One person keeps the tester away from moving objects and watches the needle, and one person needs to be inside to crank the engine over 3-4 revaluations. You should get between 120-160 depending on the compression ratio. You have to do it in every cylinder so it would be best to write it down as you go. If you are not getting atleast 120 compression you can take 1/2 cap of oil and put it in the cylinder and see if it changes. If that does not help the rings could be fused to the piston. By performing a compression test it will tell you if you have a bad valve or a bad set of rings.

From: Cherie L. Hobbs:
ok..Thank you!! We will try this tomorrow!

From: cycleguy4:
Hey Rabbit, Run a bottle of fuel injector cleaner through it, you can buy it at meijers, it says fuel injector cleaner right on the bottle. Put it into about a half tank of gas. Also if youve never changed the spark plugs, that needs to be done now. Plug gaps can widen out about a thousandth every thousand miles you drive. This would also make your problem better if you change them. Tim

From: drtice555:
It could be any of several things. Any check engine lights? If so Auto Zone will tell what they are for free. You could have got some bad gas, might be time for plugs and plug wires, or you have dirty fuel injectors. It could even be a vacuum leak. Look closely at all of your vacuum lines. Check your fuel filter. Most of this you can do yourself.
Good luck

From: rabbit1083:
my temperture gage is getting over heated. whem im oh the highway going 70 miles a hour its ok but when i slow down like in the city it begins to rise. is this my thermastat going bad?

From: Dan Tice:
Sounds like your fan is not kicking on. maybe a bad sending unit that tells it when to kick on. When you are on the highway you are pushing lots of air through the radiator and that keeps it cool.

From: rabbit1083:
when i drive my car its sounds like i hear water running or a shishing of water like on the right side of my car.it doesnt do it all the time it will quit then start again. i really dont hear it whne i get up to 70 miles ahour. just 55 or below.

From: cycleguy4:
if your car has air conditioning, it could be the freon in the lines which sounds like water running with the defroster. The air conditioner runs along with the defroster in the winter. next time it happens, turn the defroster off and see if the water noise quits. Tim

From: Sandy:
u mean turn the heat off i did that and still hear the water sound. my conditioning hasnt be working since this past summer. is there a drain thing in there that could be not draining away.

From: cycleguy4:
Sounds like your car may be low on antifreeze then, have you checked the coolant level lately? Have it done when the car is off and cold. Tim

From: Sandy:
i just had new put in. haD THE RADIATOR FLUSHED AND NEW PUT IN.

From: Dan Tice:
Sounds like the coolant running back in and out of the heater core to me, You hear it because it is most likely under the dash on the passenger side.

From: Sandy:
is that a bad thing does it need to be checked?

From: Dan Tice:
No, just make sure your coolant level is checked often for the next cople of weeks till most of the air is out of the system.

From: cycleguy4:
guess you better take it to a mechanic or just ignore it if its not hurting anything. Its hard to diagnose stuff without seeing it. ) Tim

Today I discovered a puddle under the car, looks like clear liquid.
We didn’t drive through any puddles and it isn’t raining here yet
More then a few drops.
I can’t detect a smell.
Moved the car twice and there is about the same amount each time.
It appear to be coming from the passenger side rear.
I see nothing leaking.
Nothing in the trunk that would leak.
Figures the dealer is closed until monday.

Tim wrote:
When your windshield defroster runs to defog your windshield, the ac runs off and on too. I dont know why but it does. Anyway, it makes water from condensation that drips out of the ac unit onto the ground. Maybe thats it.

Or when a car is cold, you get a lot of clear water dripping out of the tailpipe.
Tim

dtr555 wrote:
Mike, the only thing I can think it might be is condisation coming from your air conditioner all cars do this. Most of the time it drips off the fire wall area in front of the passenger side of the car.If that is not it I would get under the car after it has been driven and look for the leak it could be following along the underbody and dripping toward the rear. Good Luck

Mike wrote:
Didn’t run the car that long just 8-10 houses down the block, unloaded the car and came back, but maybe, it was more then a small puddle, and not around the tailpipe.
But we will keep watching it thanks.

Yeah I looked for a trail on the underbody, but didn’t see anything.
Now I’m sorry I gave away my car ramps

thanks

dtr555 wrote:
It might be water leaking from a pin hole in your tailpipe.

Mike wrote:
Could be but it is pretty new and very low mileage.
But the driver has a lead foot

thanks

It’s is coming from the seam on the front side of the muffler (not at
the tailpipe) when it is running. So I guess it is just water.
Car has 8000-9000 miles.

Dan wrote:
Don’t ya love it when there is nothing to repair.

Mike wrote:
yeah, I can sleep at night again

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